Saturday, August 27, 2011

Tibet Day 7: Lhasa: Tibetan Quarter, Jokhang Temple and Sera Monastery

Our first full day in Lhasa was a dreary, wet day which is somewhat uncommon given Tibet's arid climate. Our tour guide, Wan Du, commented that "it's good for the farmers" and when I think of the moon-like environment we went through on the train, I wholeheartedly agree.

Once again, when we stepped outside our hotel, the military presence in the Tibetan quarter of Lhasa was quite palpable. During breakfast I realized that there was a small military station right across the street from our hotel. During our stay we would see soldiers coming and going and every time the soldiers went out on patrol they would line up right in front of the hotel, single-file, before marching off. As we explored the quarter it became apparent that all the major entrances to the Tibetan Quarter had military checkpoints staffed by at least 4 soldiers (each looking off in a different direction). Some soldiers would be armed with fire arms (including assault rifles). Towards the end of our stay in Lhasa I learned to look up more often and it was then I realized there were soldiers stationed on the rooftops as well. I was astounded when I saw soldiers occupying the roof of the main mosque in the neighbouring Muslim quarter -- is nothing sacred? But then I remembered that China was a de facto atheistic state and the notion of places of worship being sanctuaries is probably a foreign one.

First on the itinerary is the holiest place in Tibet: The Jokhang Temple.

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